a couple of kilometres of cliff tops and parched
grassland separate Anjuna from the southern fringes of
its nearest neighbour, Vagator. A desultory collection
of ramshackle farmhouses and picturesque of old
Portuguese bungalows scattered around a network of
leafy lanes, the village is entered at the east via a
branch off the Mapusa Road, which passes a few small
guesthouses and restaurants before running down to the
by the red ramparts of Chapora Fort, Vagator's broad
white sandy beach - Big Vagator Beach also known, as
"Little Vagator" is undeniably beautiful,
just like a picture postcard.
better, then, to head to the next cove south. Backed
by a steep wall of crumbling palm-fringed laterite,
Ozran Vagator beach is more secluded and much less
accessible than either of its neighbours. To get
there, walk ten minutes from Big Vagator, or drive to
the end of the lane off the main Chapora-Anjuna Road,
from where a footpath drops sharply down to a wide
stretch of level white sand.
southern end of the beach, a row of makeshift cafes
provides shade and sustenance for a predominantly
Israeli crowd. Like Anjuna, Vagator is a relaxed,
comparatively undeveloped resort that appeals, in the
main, to budget travellers with time on their hands.
Accommodation is limited, however, and visitors
frequently find themselves travelling to and from Baga
every day to find a suitable place to stay.
OUT AND NIGHTLIFE
many cafes and restaurants are scattered along the
main road and the back lanes that lead to Ozran Beach.
There are also several seafood joints behind Big
Vagator Beach, one or two of which serve Indian dishes
in addition to the usual fish rich Goan specialities.
Nightlife focuses on the Primrose café, out towards Anjuna, which boasts a beefier than average sound
system, and a later bar.
Buses leave Panaji (a 55- minute ride) and Mapusa (a
30-minute ride) for Vagator every 15 minutes. From the
bus stop it is a 1-km walk over a hill to the beach.
Most of the accommodation, restaurants and cafes are
located in this area. Panaji, Goa is accessible by air
from all the major cities of the country. There are
adequate train and bus connections also from other
in Vagator revolves around a few family run budget
guesthouses, a pricey resort hotel and dozens of small
private properties rented out for long periods.